# How to own automobiles Having a car is *very* useful, but it should match your lifestyle. - Cars save time, but create additional expenses, which may lead to less freedom for some people. - If you don't have much money, consider using public transportation, a bicycle, motorcycle, or a motorized scooter/moped. - Even when you're [raising a family](parenting-babies.md), you typically only *need* 1 vehicle. [Do your research when buying one](autos-buying.md). Make sure your [budget](money-3_budget.md) reflects its unspoken additional costs: - Vehicle registration fees for each vehicle, usually based on its value and generally proportional to the size of the city you live in. - [Auto insurance](money-insurance.md) costs, which increase with each car and individual on the policy as well as insurance history and driving record, and *must* be full coverage if you have a [lien holder](money-2_debt.md). - Generally, a vehicle costs about 20-30% more if it has built-in towing capacity (e.g., pickup truck, SUV). - Whether they're running or not, autos have maintenance requirements. ## Driving Usually, it's a good idea to warm up the engine. - Diesel engines only work best when you've warmed them first. - Gasoline engines don't *need* warming when it's warm outside, but do need it when it gets below freezing. - If, for whatever reason, the engine is still cold, avoid over-accelerating it until it has reached operating temperature. Each vehicle, even with the same year, make, and model, handles a little differently. - The actual vehicle's [design](engineering-design.md) makes the most difference, but it can also reflect through each vehicle's parts wearing and the driver's relative use of the vehicle. - It's easiest to think of each vehicle developing a type of [personality](personality.md). In general, there are [engineering](engineering.md) tradeoffs for operating each vehicle: - Better handling means more parts that are usually more expensive. - More fuel efficiency means less power. - Older vehicles are known-good, but also often rock at every bump in the road. - Newer vehicles often have better sound-dampening, but often have [manufacturer-designed constraints](faang.md). Pay attention to which tires generate movement: - Front-wheel drive (FWD) only sends torque to the front tires. - Quicker handling, faster braking, more compact design. - Rear-wheel drive (RWD) only sends torque to the rear tires. - Slower handling, slower braking, spread-out design, easier to go fast. - All-wheel drive (AWD) sends torque to all four tires. - More control, more tire wear. - Four-wheel drive (4WD) is like AWD, but has an option to lock the axles to torque each tire. - This is ideal for off-road conditions. - If there is a trailer, note whether it has any drives as well (which it usually won't). Refuel correctly: - Cheap fuel can work fine on most lower-grade vehicles, but only use higher-quality fuel if you regularly tow a heavy load with that vehicle. - Except for stop-leak (which should only be used if you have a leak) add additives of all sorts periodically and liberally: - Fuel injector cleaner - Coolant detergent - Fuel treatment - Oil treatment Routinely perform a trip inspection: - Windows and mirrors are clear of debris, and mirrors are calibrated correctly - Seat is comfortably set and protective features (seatbelts, airbags, etc.) are functional - All the fluids are topped off - All the lights work, including the reverse signal - Windshield wipers work - Emergency equipment (e.g., first aid kit, road triangle, extra fluids) is stocked The secret to safe driving is *not* in avoiding accidents. - Professional race car drivers are exceptional at avoiding accidents (e.g., dodging debris). - Anyone can drive safe if they give as much time as possible to *react* to accidents (e.g., giving more time to hit the brakes, driving slower). Even at a relatively slow speed, automotive accidents are expensive. - Most autos are [engineered](engineering.md) with enormous gaps in the chassis, designated as "crumple zones". - Crumple zones are a win/win arrangement for auto manufacturers: drivers are more likely to walk away from an accident, and manufacturers can sell more vehicles. - Often, a 5-10 mph accident can cost thousands of dollars to repair the vehicle, and a collision with a huge vehicle (e.g., semi truck) can easily be fatal. When driving, pay close attention to everything within 40 feet around you and a quarter-mile in front of you. - It's our natural impulse to look at only a few dozen feet out (the max speed while running), but driving 60 MPH on the highway requires a *long* time to stop, especially with a larger vehicle. Driving a manual (stick shift) transmission isn't difficult, and mostly through practice until it becomes muscle memory: - The procedure for a manual transmission is relatively straightforward, but requires a bit of muscle memory to perform correctly: 1. Get near the top end of the RPM gauge with your foot on the accelerator, which you'll often be able to detect by hearing. Keep your hand on the shifter with a mental expectation of where you'll shift next. 2. In the same motion, engage your left foot on the clutch while releasing your right foot on the accelerator. 3. As soon as your foot has engaged the clutch, move the shifter to the desired gear. 4. In a reverse motion, engage the accelerator while releasing your left foot. - In large vehicles (e.g., large trucks) it requires engaging the clutch *twice*. - The whole point of the clutch is to open up the window of RPMs a gear can shift into, so if you're able to master the timing through a finely tuned sense of hearing, you can typically shift *without* the clutch as well. Reversing: - While driving most vehicles, the tires steer the front, which means more stability but also less maneuverability. - When backing, be *very* mindful of the added maneuverability mixed with the unfamiliar reversal of where turning will take you. Take your time. - If you're backing a trailer, that trailer is being pushed by the vehicle. - Longer trailers mean the vehicle has a *much* longer distance to travel before it jackknifes (angles farther than 90 degrees). - When backing straight, turn the steering wheel *into* the side that's starting to oversteer. - Navigating a trailer requires lots of intuition mixed with a clear mental map of where everything is located. Parking: - When turning into a typical parking spot, make sure the corner of the vehicle misses the neighboring parking spot by approximately 4 inches to ensure a precise positioning. - Pull forward to keep your vehicle aligned with other vehicles and prevent the rear from sticking out into the road. Parallel parking (to the right): 1. Drive *past* the spot you want and stop about 5 inches to the left of the vehicle in front of the spot. Your car's front bumper should be aligned with that vehicle's left rearview mirror. 2. Keep your foot on the brake and rotate the steering wheel hard to the right. 3. Release the brake and slowly back in. 4. At 45 degrees (when the vehicle is diagonal), hit the brakes again. 5. Rotate the steering wheel *all* the way to the left. 6. Release the brake and slowly back in, carefully watching the vehicle behind you. 7. When you're near the rear vehicle, step on the brake and rotate the wheel to even yourself out. 8. If needed, pull forward to center yourself in the spot. Adverse weather conditions: - When braking on a slippery surface, rapidly stab the brakes instead of pressing steadily. - Drive and navigate turns *much* more slowly than you'd normally travel (~20-40% slower). - Give a longer period of time for braking, especially if visibility is low. - Sometimes, it makes sense to simply wait out a storm. Driving out of the region: - When you have an out-of-region license plate, you'll be a [larger target for local law enforcement](legal-safety.md). - Research beforehand on local customs regarding the speed limit, and make sure to *always* drive 3-5 mph slower than the fastest drivers on the road. - If you're accustomed to driving on one side of the road and are in a region that drives on the other (left vs. right side), exercise extreme caution to not fall back into any old [habits](habits.md). ## Preventative Maintenance Auto parts have a predictable lifespan. - Diagnosing issues is much easier when you know when parts will likely break down. - Part lifespans vary between vehicle models and relative size. - Keep track of the date and mileage when parts are replaced. Often, you can be fortunate to spot an issue *before* it becomes a crisis by [interpreting warning lights](autos-lights.jpg) on the dashboard. Small routine needs - Car lamp - 6 months - Windshield wiper - 6-12 months Starting system - Alternator - 80K-100K miles - Starter - 80K-100K miles - Battery & battery cables - 3-5 years Engine - Air filter - 10K-15K miles - PCV valve - 30K-40K miles - Engine belts - 40K-60K miles - Thermostat - 40K-60K miles - Mufflers and exhaust pipes - 50K-80K miles - Timing belts - 60K-100K miles - Electronic engine control module - 80K-100K miles - Fuel injectors - 100K miles - Spark plugs - 100K miles - Oil pump - the full life of the car - Valve lifters - the full life of the car Fuel system - Fuel filter - 30K-40K miles - Fuel pump - 70K-90K miles Cooling system - Radiator Hoses - 40K-60K miles - Water Pump - 70K-90K miles - Radiator - 100K miles Transmission - Clutch (on manual transmissions) - 40K-60K miles - Front Axle Shaft - 70K-90K miles - Automatic Transmission - the full life of the car Suspension and structure - Shocks (if no struts) - 15K-35K miles - Struts (if no shocks) - 40K-60K miles - Springs (if no struts) - 70K-90K miles - Lower control arms - 70K-90K miles - Tie rods - 70K-90K miles - Universal joints - 70K-90K miles - Leaf spring (in large vehicles) - 5.5 years Brakes and power steering - Disc brake pads - 30K-40K miles - Drum brake shoes - 30K-40K miles - Disc brake calipers - 70K-90K miles - Power steering pump - 80K-100K miles Exhaust System - Catalytic converter - 100K miles Driving convenience - Power window motors - 60K-90K miles - Heater cores - 70K-90K miles - Windshield washer fluid pump - 70K-90K miles - Windshield wiper motors - 70K-90K miles - Air conditioning compressor - 80K-100K miles - Horn - 100K miles (assuming you're not an idiot) ### Making parts last longer Avoid parking where the elements can destroy it: - Extreme heat or freezing temperature (i.e., outside a garage). - High-salt environments like salted roads or at docks. - Consistently high-moisture conditions. - A region with annual snow can *ruin* a vehicle compared to a relatively warmer and drier area. Drive safely enough that a full cup of water on the dashboard won't spill: - Lightly tap on the accelerator to save gas and engine wear. - Avoid going beyond 60 MPH, since every additional 5 MPH costs about 3-4% more gas per mile. - Rolling the windows down under 40 MPH to increase the lifespan of the air conditioner. - Over 40 MPH, it's more economical to drive with the air conditioner *on*. - To cut back on cross-draft, roll down a front window and the opposite rear window. - Take 50-100 more feet to stop than you'd expect to decrease brake wear. - Turn the steering wheel slowly and while the vehicle is in motion to save wear on axles and power steering. To keep the car from getting cold in between, make errands back-to-back. Keep the tires inflated within 5 PSI of the recommended pressure levels: - Inflated tires save on tire wear and increase the brakes' effectiveness. If the vehicle has it, use cruise control on long stretches of uninterrupted driving. - Besides saving your feet, cruise control uses about 20% less fuel over the same distance. Refuel petrol frequently: - Don't wait until the fuel light activates, since the fuel pump may pick up debris at the bottom of the fuel tank and running out of gas can damage the catalytic converter. - Pay attention to prices in the area when you *don't* need gas to find the best deal. - To ensure a competitive price, find fuel stations with at least one other station nearby. Unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise, premium gas makes no difference in fuel economy or engine performance. Fuel additive is cheaper at an auto parts store than premium fuel, and can often repair issues. Always stay on top of routine maintenance: - Keep the battery terminals clean. - Change the oil about every 7K-10K miles or when it looks dirty. - The air filter and spark plugs are easy and cheap to replace, so replace them at any sign of wear. Inspect the fluids monthly and keep them filled: - Coolant - Should be 100% antifreeze (diluted antifreeze is a waste of money). - Keep water or coolant in the trunk in case there's a leak. - Use stop leak additives if you detect a coolant leak. - Motor oil and oil filter - Replace the engine oil every 3-10K miles. - Older vehicles burn or leak oil faster than newer ones. - Try to keep the same or thicker viscosity rating as the manufacturer's recommended. - Keep unopened oil in the trunk in case it needs to be topped off. - Use stop leak, lifter quiet, and high-mileage treatment after every oil change. - Brake fluid - Power steering fluid - Transmission fluid - Replace the transmission fluid about every 100K miles. ## When you can't fix it It's usually worth paying for a towing service beforehand. - There are many to choose from, and they can be affordably bundled with phone service or existing auto [insurance](money-insurance.md). - Have a mechanic who can service it *before* the car breaks down. When something fails, write notes to [diagnose](https://adequate.life/fix/) what's broken: - Weather conditions - The angle the vehicle was traveling (uphill, downhill, etc.) - How much weight it was carrying - The gear it was in and how shifting gears feels - Check any codes in an OBD-II scanner When searching for engine codes online, check for three specific things: 1. Direct information on the code, similar to what the repair manual will say. 2. A step-by-step video where someone walks through how to address the problem. 3. A message board or blog post about that issue associated with the vehicle's make and model. - Look for consistent information across everything to find the most accurate answer. - If you can't find that *specific* year, expand your search to nearby years and similar models. Either [resolve the problem yourself](autos-repair.md) or give it to a technician with your written diagnosis. - They won't have to diagnose, so your analysis helps them skip it and saves you money. - They're also less inclined to take advantage of you because you've proven your mechanical aptitude. ### Where to service it Pay attention to where you go: - Avoid mechanics near large highways, since they get plenty of clientele they'll never see again. - Preferably, find a small mechanic through a referral by a friend or family member. - Check for certification in the shop and a state license (in the USA). - Look for a clean garage, since a cluttered floor shows a lack of [organization](organization.md). - Unless it's a nuanced computer issue that requires the dealership, pick a small business owner over a large chain store, unless it's a nuanced computer issue. - Hourly workers are *never* as ethical or industrious as someone paid in referrals and consistent clientele. The mechanic will want to finish the work by the weekend (and many people give them work on Fridays and Saturdays), so visit on a Monday or Tuesday instead of a Friday. Watch what they tell you: - Be vigilant against scare tactics (e.g., they wouldn't drive your car another foot). - If they say they don't need fancy equipment like a conventional engine analyzer, go elsewhere. Communicate carefully: - When getting a second opinion, do *not* give the second mechanic the first one's diagnosis. - Before [signing anything](people-contracts.md), *always* get a specific estimate for each job, and *never* sign a blank work authorization form. - Ask about a labor estimation beforehand, since they'll often charge double labor for tasks. - Request factory equipment to ensure you have legitimate parts. - Ask for your old parts back to be certain they put the new ones in. ### Frequent markups Learn the market price for the parts *before* walking in. - Buy the part at an auto parts store and give it to them to replace. Many mechanics perform unnecessary services to mark up the price: - You don't need your fuel injector cleaned. - Coolant flushes are usually a gimmick, and you can do it yourself. - Power steering flushes are usually unnecessary. - Transmission flushes aren't recommended by manufacturers, and cars rarely need them. - Avoid lifetime mufflers, since you'll still have to pay for pipe repairs. - Dealers are often legally required to replace catalytic converters or emissions systems for free if it's the original one that came on the vehicle. - Metal particles in a transmission pan is completely normal. Avoid markups for things you can do yourself: - You can change your air filter by yourself, and an air filter full of dirt might not have come from your vehicle. - Fuel and fluid additives are easy to add, and available at any auto parts store. - While you can't do tire balancing and alignment, you *can* do rotation yourself, and most mechanics offer it as a free service. Watch for any cut corners: - If your tires are unusually cheap, you may be getting old treads. - Ask the build date. - There are no government standards for used tires, so personally inspect them. - Be vigilant about brake jobs, since a mechanic will often break even on an advertised $100 brake job. ## Know when to say goodbye Even if you extend an automotive's life by keeping it well-maintained and away from the elements, repairing it will eventually cost more than getting another car if you use it regularly: - It's *certainly* a good idea to replace the vehicle when the repair costs over 6 months becomes greater than the value of the vehicle. - However, a $2,000 major repair every year is still more affordable than a car payment. Thankfully, each time you have to buy a car, it becomes simpler through gained experience.