# How to perform maintenance on autos Auto parts have a predictable lifespan. - Diagnosing issues is much easier when you know when parts will likely break down. - Part lifespans vary between vehicle models and relative size. - Keep track of the date and mileage when parts are replaced. Often, you can be fortunate to spot an issue *before* it becomes a crisis by [interpreting warning lights](autos-lights.jpg) on the dashboard. Small routine needs - Car lamp - 6 months - Windshield wiper - 6-12 months Starting system - Alternator - 80K-100K miles - Starter - 80K-100K miles - Battery & battery cables - 3-5 years Engine - Air filter - 10K-15K miles - PCV valve - 30K-40K miles - Engine belts - 40K-60K miles - Thermostat - 40K-60K miles - Mufflers and exhaust pipes - 50K-80K miles - Timing belts - 60K-100K miles - Electronic engine control module - 80K-100K miles - Fuel injectors - 100K miles - Spark plugs - 100K miles - Oil pump - the full life of the car - Valve lifters - the full life of the car Fuel system - Fuel filter - 30K-40K miles - Fuel pump - 70K-90K miles Cooling system - Radiator Hoses - 40K-60K miles - Water Pump - 70K-90K miles - Radiator - 100K miles Transmission - Clutch (on manual transmissions) - 40K-60K miles - Front Axle Shaft - 70K-90K miles - Automatic Transmission - the full life of the car Suspension and structure - Shocks (if no struts) - 15K-35K miles - Struts (if no shocks) - 40K-60K miles - Springs (if no struts) - 70K-90K miles - Lower control arms - 70K-90K miles - Tie rods - 70K-90K miles - Universal joints - 70K-90K miles - Leaf spring (in large vehicles) - 5.5 years Brakes and power steering - Disc brake pads - 30K-40K miles - Drum brake shoes - 30K-40K miles - Disc brake calipers - 70K-90K miles - Power steering pump - 80K-100K miles Exhaust System - Catalytic converter - 100K miles Driving convenience - Power window motors - 60K-90K miles - Heater cores - 70K-90K miles - Windshield washer fluid pump - 70K-90K miles - Windshield wiper motors - 70K-90K miles - Air conditioning compressor - 80K-100K miles - Horn - 100K miles (assuming you're not an idiot) ## Making parts last longer Avoid parking where the elements can destroy it: - Extreme heat or freezing temperature (i.e., outside a garage). - High-salt environments like salted roads or at docks. - Consistently high-moisture conditions. - A region with annual snow can *ruin* a vehicle compared to a relatively warmer and drier area. Drive safely enough that a full cup of water on the dashboard won't spill: - Lightly tap on the accelerator to save gas and engine wear. - Avoid going beyond 60 MPH, since every additional 5 MPH costs about 3-4% more gas per mile. - Rolling the windows down under 40 MPH to increase the lifespan of the air conditioner. - Over 40 MPH, it's more economical to drive with the air conditioner *on*. - To cut back on cross-draft, roll down a front window and the opposite rear window. - Take 50-100 more feet to stop than you'd expect to decrease brake wear. - Turn the steering wheel slowly and while the vehicle is in motion to save wear on axles and power steering. To keep the car from getting cold in between, make errands back-to-back. Keep the tires inflated within 5 PSI of the recommended pressure levels: - Inflated tires save on tire wear and increase the brakes' effectiveness. If the vehicle has it, use cruise control on long stretches of uninterrupted driving. - Besides saving your feet, cruise control uses about 20% less fuel over the same distance. Refuel petrol frequently: - Don't wait until the fuel light activates, since the fuel pump may pick up debris at the bottom of the fuel tank and running out of gas can damage the catalytic converter. - Pay attention to prices in the area when you *don't* need gas to find the best deal. - To ensure a competitive price, find fuel stations with at least one other station nearby. Unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise, premium gas makes no difference in fuel economy or engine performance. Fuel additive is cheaper at an auto parts store than premium fuel, and can often repair issues. Always stay on top of routine maintenance: - Keep the battery terminals clean. - Change the oil about every 7K-10K miles or when it looks dirty. - The air filter and spark plugs are easy and cheap to replace, so replace them at any sign of wear. Inspect the fluids monthly and keep them filled: - Coolant - Should be 100% antifreeze (diluted antifreeze is a waste of money). - Keep water or coolant in the trunk in case there's a leak. - Use stop leak additives if you detect a coolant leak. - Motor oil and oil filter - Replace the engine oil every 3-10K miles. - Older vehicles burn or leak oil faster than newer ones. - Try to keep the same or thicker viscosity rating as the manufacturer's recommended. - Keep unopened oil in the trunk in case it needs to be topped off. - Use stop leak, lifter quiet, and high-mileage treatment after every oil change. - Brake fluid - Power steering fluid - Transmission fluid - Replace the transmission fluid about every 100K miles. ## When you can't fix it It's usually worth paying for a towing service beforehand. - There are many to choose from, and they can be affordably bundled with phone service or existing auto [insurance](money-insurance.md). - Have a mechanic who can service it *before* the car breaks down. When something fails, write notes to [diagnose](https://adequate.life/fix/) what's broken: - Weather conditions - The angle the vehicle was traveling (uphill, downhill, etc.) - How much weight it was carrying - The gear it was in and how shifting gears feels - Check any codes in an OBD-II scanner When searching for engine codes online, check for three specific things: 1. Direct information on the code, similar to what the repair manual will say. 2. A step-by-step video where someone walks through how to address the problem. 3. A message board or blog post about that issue associated with the vehicle's make and model. - Look for consistent information across everything to find the most accurate answer. - If you can't find that *specific* year, expand your search to nearby years and similar models. Either [resolve the problem yourself](autos-repair.md) or give it to a technician with your written diagnosis. - They won't have to diagnose, so your analysis helps them skip it and saves you money. - They're also less inclined to take advantage of you because you've proven your mechanical aptitude. ### Where to service it Pay attention to where you go: - Avoid mechanics near large highways, since they get plenty of clientele they'll never see again. - Preferably, find a small mechanic through a referral by a friend or family member. - Check for certification in the shop and a state license (in the USA). - Look for a clean garage, since a cluttered floor shows a lack of [organization](organization.md). - Unless it's a nuanced computer issue that requires the dealership, pick a small business owner over a large chain store, unless it's a nuanced computer issue. - Hourly workers are *never* as ethical or industrious as someone paid in referrals and consistent clientele. The mechanic will want to finish the work by the weekend (and many people give them work on Fridays and Saturdays), so visit on a Monday or Tuesday instead of a Friday. Watch what they tell you: - Be vigilant against scare tactics (e.g., they wouldn't drive your car another foot). - If they say they don't need fancy equipment like a conventional engine analyzer, go elsewhere. Communicate carefully: - When getting a second opinion, do *not* give the second mechanic the first one's diagnosis. - Before [signing anything](people-contracts.md), *always* get a specific estimate for each job, and *never* sign a blank work authorization form. - Ask about a labor estimation beforehand, since they'll often charge double labor for tasks. - Request factory equipment to ensure you have legitimate parts. - Ask for your old parts back to be certain they put the new ones in. ### Frequent markups Learn the market price for the parts *before* walking in. - Buy the part at an auto parts store and give it to them to replace. Many mechanics perform unnecessary services to mark up the price: - You don't need your fuel injector cleaned. - Coolant flushes are usually a gimmick, and you can do it yourself. - Power steering flushes are usually unnecessary. - Transmission flushes aren't recommended by manufacturers, and cars rarely need them. - Avoid lifetime mufflers, since you'll still have to pay for pipe repairs. - Dealers are often legally required to replace catalytic converters or emissions systems for free if it's the original one that came on the vehicle. - Metal particles in a transmission pan is completely normal. Avoid markups for things you can do yourself: - You can change your air filter by yourself, and an air filter full of dirt might not have come from your vehicle. - Fuel and fluid additives are easy to add, and available at any auto parts store. - While you can't do tire balancing and alignment, you *can* do rotation yourself, and most mechanics offer it as a free service. Watch for any cut corners: - If your tires are unusually cheap, you may be getting old treads. - Ask the build date. - There are no government standards for used tires, so personally inspect them. - Be vigilant about brake jobs, since a mechanic will often break even on an advertised $100 brake job.