# How to buy an automobile ## Always buy used Many auto manufacturers tend to design their vehicles to fail precisely *beyond* the five-year warranty. - The only way to avoid "planned obsolescence" is to avoid purchasing vehicles that may be poorly [engineered](engineering.md). - If you buy new, you can't be certain how well-built that year's make and model is. Select a brand with a reputation for reliability: - The first-year model of every auto is likely to have issues, so never buy them. - Some vehicle brands will go through troughs of poor reliability, so a vehicle brand that *was* reliable might not be anymore. Never lease a car, since it's unquestionably the most expensive way to own a vehicle. - Right behind that, owning a vehicle within its 5-year warranty is the most expensive way to own it. Buy autos between 5 and 15 years old: - Anything newer than five years old will *dramatically* drop in value, and if you *refuse* to learn basic auto repair skills, buy at least two years old. - Aim for a low-mileage vehicle whenever possible, since that determines how much wear the vehicle will endure. - Only buy older than 15 years if you're willing to make frequent repairs yourself. A dealership uses a self-created authority that "certify" pre-owned cars, so it shouldn't be part of your decision. If you don't need a larger vehicle every week, get a smaller vehicle: - Larger vehicles burn more petrol and are far pricier to fix when they break down. - Even if you occasionally need a pickup truck or SUV once or twice a month, consider the price difference from renting when you need it. ### Research beforehand [Look at the VIN](autos-vin.png) for precise information about the factory design of the vehicle. Check the car's approximate market value, since auto quality varies wildly by brand and year: - High-end brands are excellent, but are expensive to repair and [insure](money-insurance.md) because finding parts is difficult (e.g., BMW, Renault, Ferrari). - Large brands are often reputable and tend to be affordable to repair (e.g., Toyota, Honda, Ford, Acura, Subaru, Mini). - Mid-level brands create reliable cars, but they have a higher chance of breaking down (e.g., GM, Nissan). - Value-priced companies make affordable cars that *frequently* break down (e.g., Volkswagen, Fiat, Kia, Hyundai). Since mechanics are the experts on knowing autos' dependability and cost of repairs, consider what they tend to own (in the US): - The most common: 1. Toyota/Lexus 2. Honda/Acura 3. Chevrolet trucks 4. Subaru 5. Hyundai/Kia, though they do break down frequently because their factory quality control is bad 6. Ford Trucks, depending on the engine type - Less common (worth skepticism): 7. Mitsubishi 8. Nissan/Infiniti 9. Chrysler (Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep) 10. BMW 11. VW/Audi 12. Mercedes-Benz 13. Volvo 14. Saab 15. Any other European-made vehicles (e.g., Fiat) 16. Any vehicle with a continuous velocity transmission (CVT) - Not mentioned (worth avoiding): - GM (Chevrolet, GMC, Buick, Cadillac) - Hybrid vehicles - Tesla - Everything else that isn't proven to be popular - To avoid at all costs: - All 2004-2010 Ford trucks/SUVs with 5.4 Triton V8 (3 valve), with cam phaser and timing chain issues where the engines keep blocking up with fluids. - All models of GMC Acadia, Enclave, Traverse, Outlook, Equinox, Terrain, among others, which have a 3.6 liter V6 and tends to ruin the timing chain system. - All European cars with over 150,000 miles, since they become very expensive to maintain ($1K-3K repairs every 6 months). - They're very affordable because nobody wants them, even though they were often very expensive vehicles when new. - Any GM vehicle with a 3.1 or 3.4 liter V6, which often have head gasket issues and are fine *only if they are maintained very well*. - Any truck/SUV with AFM (active fuel management) or MDS (multi-displacement system) (e.g., 5.3 or 60 MAX Vortec for AFM or 5.7 or 6.4 Hemis for MDS) - These systems have lifters that can turn cylinders on and off with oil pressure, and have a history of breaking easily and destroying engine blocks. - Any 2000-2005 Subarus, which have very expensive head gasket issues. Irrespective of brand, *every* used car is different. - The types of failures each car demonstrates gives it a type of "personality" (e.g., frequent transmission issues, engine runs hot, false-positive engine codes). Used vehicles will have 3 potential problems: 1. Mechanical problems - Take someone with you experienced with autos when you inspect it. 2. Poor maintenance - Request any maintenance records from the owner, like oil changes or repairs. 3. Was stolen or involved in a major accident Write down *any* questions or thoughts you have while examining the vehicle, since you can always disregard them later. ### Inspect it *before* buying *Always* perform a thorough inspection before you pay for a used car. - Even if it has been "fully serviced" by their mechanic, take it to *your* mechanic to have it looked at. Broadly, look for various issues that arise in used cars: - Improper fluid levels or leakage beyond normal seepage - Visibly cracked or damaged parts under the hood - Abnormal noise or vibration from faulty parts - Frame - Frame cracks, corrective welds, or rust-through - A bent or twisted frame (dog tracks) - Engine - Cracked block or head - Missing or inoperable belts - Camshaft is knocking or missing - Bad lifters or push rods - Abnormal exhaust discharge - Transmission and drive shaft - Any gear is improperly shifting or functioning - Manual clutch is slipping or chattering - Cooling system - Improperly functioning water pump - Electrical system - Battery leakage - Improperly functioning alternator, generator, battery, or starter - Accessories - Faulty air conditioning, heater/defroster, gauges, or warning devices - Brake system - Broken failure warning light - Pedal not firm under pressure - Not enough pedal reserve - Doesn't stop vehicle in a straight line - Drum or rotor too thin - Lining or pad thickness <1/32" - Power unit not operating or leaking - Steering system - Too much free play in the steering wheel - Linkage free play more than 1/4" - Steering gear binds or jams - Front wheel aligned improperly - Power unit belts cracked or slipping - Suspension system - Ball joint seals or structural parts damaged - Stabilizer bar disconnected - Spring broken - Shock absorber mounting loose - Rubber bushings or radius rod damaged or missing - Shock absorber leaking or faulty - Tires - Tread depth <2/32" - Mismatched sizes - Exhaust system - Faulty catalytic converter A. Ask for the VIN before arriving there and get a vehicle inspection report. B. Examine the outside and body of the car in broad daylight. - Check underneath for oil leaks and white dust (body filler). - Look at the tires for cupping or gouges, which points to a more significant problem. - Inspect for body damage: - Open and close all doors, then check if the door seams are the same. - Pull back the rubber around the doors and windows to compare whether the paint is the same. - Slam the hood to see if it's correctly aligned all the way around. - Compare the left and right side. - Pop the trunk to see any rear-end damage. - Check the factory seams underneath the trunk's spare tire. - Observe the paint reflection to spot any dings or fixes. C. If you're allowed to, crank up the bottom of the car. - Check the CV joints. - Check if the engine or transmission has any leaks near it. D. If you're allowed to, scan it with an OBD-II reader. - OBD-II readers are as cheap as $40. - The OBD-II port is usually somewhere under the steering wheel. - Read any engine codes, if there are any. E. Test drive it. 1. Cold start it. - A cold start is under 90 °F without the keys in the ignition for at least 8 hours. 2. Let it idle for 3-5 minutes. - Test the signal lights and all headlights. - Test the heater/defroster, rear defroster, and air conditioner. - Shift the gears several times. - Test the windshield wipers and radio. - Check the exhaust for drips or black smoke. - If the car is running hot after idling, turn it off and walk away for any price above its scrap value. 3. Drive through the city to the highway from 25 to 40 mph. - Listen for buzzing noises, humming noises, clicking noises. - Set the inside fan to hot and defrost, then set it to high and try to smell any leaking fluids. - Hit the brakes quickly without touching the steering wheel and see if the car swerves left or right. - Test the power steering by turning the wheels while stopped. - Drive it through an alleyway or near a flat wall to hear its running sounds. - Swerve back and forth in a parking lot to test the suspension. - Turn the heater on after it's warm and check for heat (no heat is a good sign the head gaskets are blown). 4. Accelerate at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle onto the highway, then stay on it for at least 5 miles at 55-60 mph. - Check to see if the steering wheel shakes or the whole car seems to lean one direction. 5. Open the hood after a few minutes and and inspect for anything out-of-place. - If the seller is even remotely savvy, they'll have tried to clean it up, but a test drive will usually show issues. - Look for any fluids present outside the engine (e.g., oil drips). - Check that the oil and water didn't mix (there's no oil in the coolant reservoir or white foam from the oil dipstick). - Check for lots of stop-leak in the coolant reservoir (smells bad, wtih lots of brown or gray chunks in the reservoir). 6. Drive through the city back to the location, continuing to test the different systems. - If it overheats during the drive, don't buy it. F. Assuming you're allowed to, reread the codes with the OBD-II reader. - If the seller reset the codes, a test drive lets you see them. G. If you like what you see, bring it to a mechanic you trust to do a final check. - A $100 inspection may save you thousands. H. [Negotiate](people-conflicts-negotiation.md) the price down if you can. - If possible, avoid gender bias with a male present. - Do *not* let the seller exploit you. - If you can, have cash available to pay the full amount for the car. - Never look desperate, and always be prepared to walk away. ## Be careful with upselling Many auto dealerships give alternatives that are *terrible* for you. - Never, ever lease a car, which is absurdly expensive. - Car warranties don't usually make sense for the price (and they usually don't give them on used vehicles). Don't get the "premium car care" package, since it's a list of *very* basic things you can do yourself. - The "premium car wash" is often simply hosing down the car (and not a proper car wash). - The "interior detailing and rejuvenation" is often blowing out the interior with compressed air (which you can do at home) and sometimes wiping surfaces with a wet paper towel. - "Functionality check" is checking if all the lights, heater, and A/C work. - "Clock synchronization" is setting the clock if it's wrong. - "Summer/winter inspections" are checking tire tread, tire pressure, lookikng at the temperature gauge and adding water in the summer, having less wiper fluid in the winter, and visually inspecting the brake discs. - "Roadside assistance" is usually at *your* expense, and only during business hours. ## Buying a second car Only get a *second* auto for the right reasons: - You need multiple vehicles for [a growing family](parenting-children.md). - You don't trust your current vehicle to reliably navigate from one place to another. - Your time is important, so you want a [risk management solution](safety-riskmgmt.md) if your car fails. It's also not uncommon to inherit a car from someone else. - Generally, if someone is under severe [hardship](hardship.md), they'll often give over their car to avoid further trouble maintaining it (e.g., [too old to drive](hardship-aging.md), [medical condition](hardship-infirmity.md)). Before getting rid of an old car, consider repurposing it as one of your children's first cars, a commuter vehicle or a recreational vehicle. - It can be very convenient and affordable to have a commuter vehicle as your primary, with a second vehicle you can [work on](autos-repair.md) in your leisure time.